Note Pyramid
Aldehydes
Galbanum
Marigold
Aire
Loewe Aire Eau de Toilette 100ml has been sold since 1985, and almost nothing about the way it is built would be attempted by a brand launching a fragrance today.
Start with the sheer number of materials. Twenty eight are listed and fourteen of them are in the top alone: aldehydes for a soapy sparkle, galbanum and basil for bitter green, marigold for a dry herbal bite, then lemon, bergamot, petitgrain, tangerine and mandarin orange stacked one on another, neroli and jasmine for flowers, ylang ylang for richness, peach for softness, and asafoetida, a savoury resin almost nobody puts in a bottle, sitting underneath as a shadow.
The middle is floral and powdered. Lily of the valley brings green dew, carnation a spiced warmth, cyclamen a thin clean lift, rose a fullness, and iris and orris the cold powdered root character that gives the whole thing its period quality. Incense and amber warm it from below. Then the base arrives: oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood, cedarwood, vanilla and musk, between them supplying damp bitterness, dry roots, smoothness, sharpness and a trace of sweetness.
In wear it is loud for an eau de toilette and lasts considerably longer than the concentration suggests, because a composition with this much structure does not simply evaporate off the skin. Cooler weather suits it, evenings suit it, it reads feminine in the manner of its era, and 100ml is the standard bottle.
Loewe is a Spanish house with a German name. Enrique Loewe Roessberg supplied the second of those when he bought the Madrid workshop in 1872; the first comes from the city where the company has traded since 1846. It started making fragrance in 1972.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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