Sublime
Of everything the label currently puts forward, Sublime is the one it leads with, and Tory Burch Sublime Eau de Parfum is the most complete thing in the range: nine materials, two perfumers in Christine Hassan and Rodrigo Flores-Roux, and a proper three stage structure.
The opening is tart and green at once. Italian mandarin gives the juice and the peel, peach adds a soft blush of fruit that keeps it from being merely citrus, and ivy supplies something quite unusual, a cool, bitter, slightly sappy green that smells of leaves on a north facing wall. That bitterness is what stops the fruit turning into squash.
The middle is a considered trio. Magnolia is the lead, lemony and creamy at the same time, osmanthus brings its apricot and tea leaf character, and rose fills in behind them with weight rather than perfume. It is a floral heart that never becomes powdery, which is harder to achieve than it sounds.
What happens underneath is the interesting part. Leather gives a soft, suede like dryness, patchouli adds wet soil, and vetiver brings smoke and a bitter root edge, so the last hours are considerably more serious than the opening fruit suggests. Anyone expecting a pretty scent all the way through should know that it dries down handsomely instead. The eau de parfum concentration gives it real staying power at a moderate distance, so it works in an office as well as at dinner. Spring and autumn suit it best, it reads feminine without being girlish, and it is a sound choice for someone who wants one bottle to cover work, weekends and occasions.
The house was started in 2004 by Tory Burch, whose first store opened in the Nolita district of New York, and it sells fashion and accessories under her name. The fragrances are made under an exclusive worldwide licence signed with the Estee Lauder Companies in November 2011.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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