Utur Al-Yaqut Shujae
A complicated scent in a small bottle is a good combination, and Utur Al-Yaqut Shujae Eau de Parfum 30ml is both. Eleven materials go into it, which is far more than most things at 24 euro, and the small size means you can live with something this busy for a few weeks before deciding whether you want the large bottle.
The opening is odd and good. Bergamot gives the citrus, licorice brings a sweet anise note in next to it, and cardamom cuts across the two with something cool and resinous. Lavender and nutmeg take the middle, one clean and barbershop like, the other dusty and warm. The rest of it is a long dark tail. Patchouli and vetiver put earth and root underneath, leather adds a dry, hide like rasp, labdanum thickens everything with resin, caramel feeds in just enough sweetness to stop the leather biting, and white musk draws the lot in close to the skin. It shifts noticeably over an evening, which is the reward for the length of that list.
This is a bottle for nights and for the colder half of the year. It leans masculine, although the lavender and caramel soften it enough that plenty of people wear it either way. Two sprays and twenty minutes of patience before you judge it, because the opening is not where it ends up. Six of those eleven materials sit in the final stretch, where the scent spends most of its time, so the small bottle costs you nothing in the experience of it; you are not missing a stage by owning less. The 100ml bottle is there if Shujae turns into your regular.
Saphir produces this under its own name rather than for anyone else, and the licensed designer fragrances it also manufactures help keep its own lines priced the way they are. The Spanish company has been in fragrance since 1940 and runs a Zaragoza plant with a research centre of its own, where every Saphir branded bottle is filled.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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