Eau de Rochas Eau de Toilette Gift Set

Warm weather is where this one belongs, and Eau de Rochas Eau de Toilette Gift Set makes a reasonable summer birthday present for exactly that reason.

Nicolas Mamounas composed the fragrance, and its appeal is the clarity of the opening. Bergamot, lemon, mandarin orange and lemon verbena hit together, bitter and bright and green all at once, which is the effect a hot morning calls for. Rather than fading into nothing, it moves into a floral middle led by daffodil, an unusual flower in perfumery and a cool, sappy, slightly bitter one. Jasmine lends it body and lily of the valley keeps the whole thing crisp. The finish is the part that surprises people: oakmoss and patchouli bring in damp earth and myrrh adds a dry resinous warmth, so after an hour it is quieter but considerably deeper.

Eau de toilette strength means moderate projection and a few hours of wear, with the fragrance sitting closer to the skin as the day goes on. Reapplying is expected rather than a failure. In cold weather it loses most of its point, so save it for the months it was designed around.

As a gift it is pitched well. It is recognisable without being a cliche, it is not overpowering, and it is as suitable for someone in their twenties as for someone considerably older. The format also removes the awkwardness of guessing at another person's bottle size.

Marcel Rochas founded the house in Paris in 1925 and started producing perfume in 1936. His wife Helene succeeded him in 1955 and spent decades building the fragrance business. Since 2015 the brand has been in the hands of Interparfums, who bought it from Procter and Gamble.