Curatio
Clove is what gives Memoize London Curatio Extrait de Parfum 100ml its character, and it is the material that will decide whether you like the bottle or leave it on the shelf.
Nine materials build it, which is a moderate count, and the shape is easy to follow. Orange arrives first, juicy and simple, with cardamom beside it adding a dry aromatic snap and ylang ylang bringing a heady, almost overripe sweet richness that is unusual this early in a composition. The middle is where the clove lands. It is sharp, medicinal and warm all at once, the smell of a spice drawer rather than a kitchen, and geranium runs alongside it with a green, faintly metallic bite. Jasmine softens the pair and peach adds a fuzzy sweetness that keeps the spice from turning austere. Underneath it all, vanilla and amber do the settling, warm and resinous, holding the last hours in place. Extrait concentration here means persistence more than volume. It stays within arm's reach after the first half hour and then simply refuses to leave, which is the behaviour most people actually want from an expensive bottle. This is a cold weather proposition. Clove and amber are heavy going in July and come into their own in November, and the ylang ylang gives it enough flourish for an evening out. It reads as unisex, slightly more so once the opening citrus has burned off, and it is better suited to dinners, theatres and long nights than to a desk at nine in the morning.
A full 100ml at this strength will outlast several years of occasional wear, so the question is not whether there is enough of it but whether the clove suits you. If you have found most spiced fragrances either too thin or too sweet, the pairing of clove and geranium here is worth ten minutes of your attention, because very little else is doing the same thing.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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