Note Pyramid
Artem
Putting strawberry in the base rather than the top is the thing that makes Memoize London Artem Extrait de Parfum 100ml worth paying attention to, because fruit written that low in a composition behaves completely differently. The opening is cool and dry. Violet gives a powdery, slightly green sweetness, and tea sits beside it, astringent and leafy, closer to the smell of dry leaves in a caddy than to anything brewed. It is a quiet start, and deliberately so. Nothing in it prepares you for the sweetness waiting below.
The heart holds that register. Orris is cool, chalky and powdery, one of the quieter luxuries in perfumery and one of the least showy, and tonka bean brings a soft sweetness with a bitter edge tucked underneath it. Together they make a middle that is smooth and faintly dusty rather than floral. Orris is the least demonstrative material in the bottle and the one doing the most work. Then the strawberry, and from below it reads as a jammy sweetness rising through the powder rather than a fresh fruit sitting on top of it. Vanilla smooths it further, musk makes the whole arrangement cling, and the drydown is soft, warm and very long. Seven materials, arranged with some thought, and it is a strange structure that turns out to be a successful one.
Extrait concentration means this stays on skin for the best part of a day and on fabric for longer, while keeping fairly close after the first hour. That combination of long life and modest projection suits offices, dinners and company generally. It works best in cool weather, reads as unisex, and at 100ml it is a bottle that will outlast most of its owners' enthusiasms. It is a sensible choice for anyone who likes sweetness but not volume.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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