Esencia Elixir
Anyone who knows the original will find Loewe Esencia Elixir Eau de Parfum a very different proposition, because this is the dense, resinous reading of the Esencia name rather than the green one.
It begins with a feint. Lemon flashes across the top for a minute or two, and ylang ylang comes with it, creamy and faintly banana like, but patchouli, sandalwood and tonka bean are already present in the opening, which tells you immediately where this is going. The effect is of a bright note struck over a chord that has already been held down hard. The middle is the most interesting part of it. Cedarwood gives a dry pencil shaving sharpness, vetiver roots the whole thing in damp earth, and cypriol supplies that smoky, almost tarry quality that often gets used as a stand in for oud. Driftwood is the unusual inclusion: sun bleached, weathered, slightly mineral, and it keeps the resins from turning heavy or airless. Amber threads through the middle as a soft, steady warmth.
The finish is thick and long. Benzoin brings a balsamic sweetness close to melted sugar, oakmoss adds a bitter, damp, forest floor edge, patchouli deepens the earth under everything, and amber returns to round it all off. Tonka bean is still there too, dry and dusted rather than sugary.
The composition is signed by Núria Cruelles Borrull, and it was released in 2023. At this concentration ten hours is realistic and the trail is noticeable, so a single spray is a sensible starting point. Cold weather and evenings are its territory and it reads as unisex leaning masculine. The house behind it, founded in Madrid in 1846 and in fragrance since 1972, develops its perfumes within LVMH.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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