Mitsouko
Guerlain Mitsouko was composed in 1919 and is the reference chypre, the mossy, fruity, slightly bitter style that defined serious perfumery for half a century.
Bergamot opens it with jasmine and rose. The bergamot is sharp and bitter, and the two flowers arriving with it rather than after it mean the fragrance never has a simple fresh phase.
Peach is the heart and the reason for its fame. In 1919 the peach note was new, made with a lactone that gives a soft, velvety, almost skin-like warmth, and it is placed against ylang ylang, more jasmine and rose, and lilac. The effect is a fruit that smells less like eating and more like touching.
Oakmoss, cinnamon, vetiver and amber finish it. Oakmoss is the chypre signature, damp and bitter and faintly inky, and against the peach above it produces the melancholy, slightly austere character that people either love immediately or never warm to.
How Mitsouko wears
It lasts a long time and projects moderately. Autumn and winter suit it, and it rewards wearing on skin rather than judging from a card.
Guerlain Mitsouko Eau de Parfum, 75ml, created by Jacques Guerlain in 1919 for Guerlain, the Paris house founded in 1828.
Please note: images are a guide only. Packaging and bottle design may occasionally differ from those shown due to manufacturer updates or promotions.
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